How does the replacement for the first definitive hot hatch stack up? We find out...

Driving

If you’ve driven a Mk1 before then you won’t find a Mk2 too dissimilar. It’s lower and wider than the original, so you can be that bit more confident in the corners, while the 16v really needs to be tried to appreciate the 27bhp power gain. If you’ve not had a go in the original then you can expect here, as you would for the Mk1, taut handling and surprisingly punchy performance.

Those are the good points, but there are also a few niggles, so make sure you've researched car insurance online. First if steering is unassisted then expect it to be on the heavy side (especially compared to the Mk1). Plus, although the notorious RHD brake delay from the Mk1 has been solved, the Mk2 has its own issue – rear calipers are terrible for seizing. Mk3 replacements are recommended.

Engine & Gearbox

The 1.3- and 1.8-litre engines are tried and tested powerplants, being near enough carbon copies of ones used for the Mk1. The 1.6 replaces the 1.5-litre unit, but again it’s fairly solid. You’re searching for proof of oil changes every 5000 miles if your looking for a really solid powerplant.

Watch the tailpipe for clouds of blue smoke, a tell-tale sign of worn valve guides. Out on test ensure there’s no erratic idle or flat spots throughout the rev range. Under the bonnet check for oil leaks – breather pipes can come loose, this isn’t much of an issue, but equally the cause could be a warped cam cover, which isn’t good. Be sure to find out when the cambelt was last changed too – every 60,000 miles or four years is the general ruling.

On the 8-valve cars a lack of regular servicing can take its toll on the oil pump. If you’re going for an earlier non-injection model be aware the carbs might require some tinkering.

No gearbox is bulletproof, but the Mk2 ones will certainly take a beating before throwing in the towel. Commonly it’s a second gear crunch you need to be wary of. Fresh synthetic gear oil and new linkages might help delay a rebuild, but ultimately that’s the only solution.

To read the rest of this buying guide see the March 2012 issue of Golf+.

Back issues available here.